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Cable Install at New Property

Hi, 

I'm moving house shortly and I'm trying to find out whether I'd be able to get cable coming into my house from the rear. 

The cable comes in from the street at the front of the house, but I'd need it to be run round the outside and come in on the first floor at the rear. Is there a way I can find out if the installers would be able to do that? 

This is for broadband only I don't have any TV services.

Thanks. 

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Re: Cable Install at New Property

First floor will be an issue, VM heights team are kind of rare. Like hens teeth.

 

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Re: Cable Install at New Property

Really? I didn't think the first floor part would be an issue as previously I've had TV in at ground floor and broadband in at the first floor at two previous properties. 

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jbrennand
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Re: Cable Install at New Property

Yep me too, two first floor connections.

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Shweby
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Re: Cable Install at New Property

Virgin will install on the 1st floor, nothing higher than that.

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Re: Cable Install at New Property

I am more than happy to be proved wrong, but AFAIK  these days 1st floor requires a heights team.

Issue is you cant go from inside out as a burst brick will compromise your damp proofing whereas from outside in (at the right angle) , worst case scenario you get some burst plaster. Polyfilla (other brands are available) is cheap.

So you are into WAH regs for 1st floor external to inside. Two man heights team required.

TBF Im going by what the local guys tell me and they are a militant (but professional)  lot , YMMV.

Let us know the outcome it will inform us all!

 

 

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Re: Cable Install at New Property


@Kippies wrote:

Issue is you cant go from inside out as a burst brick will compromise your damp proofing whereas from outside in (at the right angle) , worst case scenario you get some burst plaster. Polyfilla (other brands are available) is cheap.


Compromise damp proofing - how? 

All damp proof courses are are ~ 1-3 feet from ground level designed to stop damp from the ground climbing up the walls and breaching the "course".  Any holes above that are usually just sealed with silicon sealant to prevent external water ingress - or in the case of bathroom vents, toilet overflow pipes, Xpelairs, boiler vents,  etc, for example - nothing.  Any cable entering above the course (15 feet below!) simply need a "u" drip bend.


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Re: Cable Install at New Property


@Kippies wrote:

I am more than happy to be proved wrong, but AFAIK  these days 1st floor requires a heights team.

 


1st floor does not need a heights team. As its my day job, its something i do often. The worst that happens it you have a blow out on the outside, so you just fit a blast plate to cover the hole.

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griffin
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Re: Cable Install at New Property

The damp course should be at finished floor level, with the building regs requiring a minimum 150mm splash back between ground level and damp course.

You shouldn't get a blow out on the outside if you drill from the outside as said, or drill a pilot hole first. As said, a faceplate can be installed which IMHO looks better as well as adding a bit more weather proofing to the silicone sealant.

The way construction H&S is going I wouldn't be surprised to see installations above head height being ruled out Smiley Happy the last site I worked on you needed a permit to use a step ladder.

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Re: Cable Install at New Property


@jbrennand wrote:

@Kippies wrote:

Issue is you cant go from inside out as a burst brick will compromise your damp proofing whereas from outside in (at the right angle) , worst case scenario you get some burst plaster. Polyfilla (other brands are available) is cheap.


Compromise damp proofing - how? 

All damp proof courses are are ~ 1-3 feet from ground level designed to stop damp from the ground climbing up the walls and breaching the "course".  Any holes above that are usually just sealed with silicon sealant to prevent external water ingress - or in the case of bathroom vents, toilet overflow pipes, Xpelairs, boiler vents,  etc, for example - nothing.  Any cable entering above the course (15 feet below!) simply need a "u" drip bend.

Your DPC stops damp rising up the walls. Anything that breaches the brick face above it can be an issue as it can let water penetrate to cavity and cause damp issues internally.

A normal drill hole from outside to inside at an upward angle is more or less waterproof- add a plate and some silicone, jobs a good un.

 


@Shweby wrote:

@Kippies wrote:

I am more than happy to be proved wrong, but AFAIK  these days 1st floor requires a heights team.

 


1st floor does not need a heights team. As its my day job, its something i do often. The worst that happens it you have a blow out on the outside, so you just fit a blast plate to cover the hole.


1st floor from the outside needs a heights team period. Whilst you may convince an engineer to do it solo, WAH regs state that ladders should be used for access only. In fact the WAH regs were brought in as a certain satellite company didn't risk asses the fitting of dishes properly and a couple of guys died from falls. So now they sub it out.

I know this because in a former life I specced and costed jobs,  and companies that didn't go with the regs were the bane of my life. Ladders are always cheaper than MEWPS, but working off a ladder at first floor height drilling a hole through two brick courses, potentially anything on the inside AND whatever lurking in the cavity is asking for the drill to kick and throw you off the ladder. Thats before you take into account Newtons third law and the fact guys up a ladder will be rushing and putting undue pressure on the drill.....

A blast plate is a cosmetic fix to a structural issue, unless its done 100% right. One guy on a swaying ladder (no two man team, no-one to foot it) . silicone in one hand, blast plate in the other and none on the ladder? And hes taken his Ladder-mate off cos it dont fit on the roof-rack. And his lanyards under the  1 metric tonne of rubbish in the back of the van cos he doesn't get a chance to dung it out.

Have I convinced you I have ACTUAL experience of this stuff yet?

I also live quite literally 500 yards from the HSE's headquarters, so no cheap window cleaner will take the work. It has to be the expensive dudes with the reach and wash system. Smiley Wink

You want to see the kerfuffle when those guys get work done. They replaced a few windows and the whole building was scaffolded for like six weeks. Latest addition is an edge rail to a roof NO-ONE goes on, but might need to one day.

 

 

 

 

 


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