on 16-10-2017 15:05
Hi,
I have just got virgin media broadband installed at my house with the new hub 3.0 router. Got the 100mbps.
I have an office at the back of my garden. I have an long Ethernet cable running from my office into my house. It is a long garden so the signal from the office from the router will not reach the house.
I want my office to have a wireless internet connection and still also need wireless internet in my house.
Here are my questions:
1.Do I need to put my router into modem mode so I can use the router in the office?
2.If in modem mode will the virgin hub 3.0 wireless signal still work in my house? (I still need a wireless connection in my house)
3.What is best router to get for the home office? That works well with the Super Hub 3.0.
4.I also hard wire my TV, CCTV, Nvida Shield (gaming machine) all direct into my router currently. Will these ports still work if I change to modem mode?
Thanks in advance
Answered! Go to Answer
on 16-10-2017 15:16
on 16-10-2017 16:57
last question first - modem mode means only one port on the back of the hub3 will work - you also wont have wifi
so my answer
for the home office as you have an ethernet cable between the house and office you need an access point [AP] thats very similar to a router - it would have 4 lan connections and wifi - it can be a [normal] router but you would need to go to its config page and turn off DHCP - simple and easy - any router for the VM system will be good - a good place to start looking is the Asus range
in the house - hub3 in router mode gives you 4 lan connections - 1 of which will be used to connect to the outside office so only 3 useful and wifi
if you need more wired connections in the house assuming the hub3 give good wifi coverage then a multipoint switch will give you more wired connections - if wifi is not good enough from the hub3 then instead of a switch add a router as you have done in the office - again with DHCP turned off - that would not need to be next to the hub3 so depending on the siting of the hub3 could be more central in the main house
on 16-10-2017 17:32
@Dmacman wrote:Thanks for your reply. But I do not understand your answer.
What is an AP?
So are you saying I need to buy two new routers?
You could buy two routers and make one a AP (wireless access point) with the hub in modem mode.
A AP is not a router with NAT just a AP but have normally better wireless then a wireless router.
Like this.
on 16-10-2017 21:45
I would suggest that you only need to buy another router (to sit next to the Hub 3) if the hub 3 is not providing the wireless range you want expect. A lot of people recommend getting another router and putting the Hub 3 in modem mode, but this is another cost. Yes there are limitations with the Hub3, but for standard use it works ok. However for advanced networking you would need another router next to the hub, although the AP (wireless access point) at the far end of your Ethernet cable is a must if you definitely want wireless.
One word of potential warning that I have just found this weekend with the Hub 3. I have just run a length of approx. 25m of Cat 7 Ethernet and found that the (either because it is Cat 7 or the length) the Hub 3 was negotiating the connection to only 10/100 Mbps rather than a gigabit. This is the hub as connecting it to two of my old TP Link gigabit routers worked without issue. This may or may not be an issue for you, but just a word of caution if you have a long stretch Ethernet - I don't know if others have experienced this and it might not be a concern for you as you'll be able to achieve 95% of your 100Mbps if it occurs. If it does then might have no option but to get a better router.
on 16-10-2017 15:16
on 16-10-2017 16:26
Thanks for your reply. But I do not understand your answer.
What is an AP?
So are you saying I need to buy two new routers?
on 16-10-2017 16:57
last question first - modem mode means only one port on the back of the hub3 will work - you also wont have wifi
so my answer
for the home office as you have an ethernet cable between the house and office you need an access point [AP] thats very similar to a router - it would have 4 lan connections and wifi - it can be a [normal] router but you would need to go to its config page and turn off DHCP - simple and easy - any router for the VM system will be good - a good place to start looking is the Asus range
in the house - hub3 in router mode gives you 4 lan connections - 1 of which will be used to connect to the outside office so only 3 useful and wifi
if you need more wired connections in the house assuming the hub3 give good wifi coverage then a multipoint switch will give you more wired connections - if wifi is not good enough from the hub3 then instead of a switch add a router as you have done in the office - again with DHCP turned off - that would not need to be next to the hub3 so depending on the siting of the hub3 could be more central in the main house
on 16-10-2017 17:32
@Dmacman wrote:Thanks for your reply. But I do not understand your answer.
What is an AP?
So are you saying I need to buy two new routers?
You could buy two routers and make one a AP (wireless access point) with the hub in modem mode.
A AP is not a router with NAT just a AP but have normally better wireless then a wireless router.
Like this.
on 16-10-2017 21:45
I would suggest that you only need to buy another router (to sit next to the Hub 3) if the hub 3 is not providing the wireless range you want expect. A lot of people recommend getting another router and putting the Hub 3 in modem mode, but this is another cost. Yes there are limitations with the Hub3, but for standard use it works ok. However for advanced networking you would need another router next to the hub, although the AP (wireless access point) at the far end of your Ethernet cable is a must if you definitely want wireless.
One word of potential warning that I have just found this weekend with the Hub 3. I have just run a length of approx. 25m of Cat 7 Ethernet and found that the (either because it is Cat 7 or the length) the Hub 3 was negotiating the connection to only 10/100 Mbps rather than a gigabit. This is the hub as connecting it to two of my old TP Link gigabit routers worked without issue. This may or may not be an issue for you, but just a word of caution if you have a long stretch Ethernet - I don't know if others have experienced this and it might not be a concern for you as you'll be able to achieve 95% of your 100Mbps if it occurs. If it does then might have no option but to get a better router.
on 16-10-2017 22:11
16-10-2017 22:40 - edited 16-10-2017 22:46
Oh (head in hands) - why spend good money on a HUB and then disable half of it to do the job of a cheaper wireless access point? It's certainly not going to do a bit of good if it's next to the HUB and half a mile from the garage (sorry garden office) !!!!
I fail to understand this ridiculous (and needlessly costly) kneejerk urge to always start any problem with converting the VM Hub to modem mode and buying another router ... then to suggest buying yet another router to convert to a wireless access point is farcical.
Ethernet for a long run - ethernet is good for a 100m uninterrupted run. If you buy a made up cable please pay more than 99p inc p&p - or you'll just end up with a poor quality connection full of errors. Ideally a shielded cable is best - but you'd be looking at £30 for a 40-50m. Your next consideration is if you are serious - over the counter ethernet cable isn't external grade by default - and again - you pays your money. When you look at the route of any cable - be realistic about the environment - if it's nailed to a wall out in the sun it will crack and disintegrate in a few months.
If it's a permanent thing and you don't have the tools - consider the cost of getting someone in to do a decent job of it instead of trying to bodge an e-bay bargain.
Your options are quite restricted - I'll list them in the order I'd use them.
First you need to extend a port on the HUB using an ethernet cable to the garage - stick with cat 5 or 6 - it's adequate, cheaper and less susceptible to external interference - then use that connection to feed either;
1 - a switch and use a ethernet to connect device(s)
2 - Wireless access point (not AP!) which uses the cable connect to the router and then feeds a second WiFi source that works pretty much like the HUB.
This last option is probably the easiest - IF you have a mains feed to the garage. However you have to be aware that it might work - or it might not (homeplug can be a bit quirky) Ideally borrow a set to try before you buy.
3 - If you have mains electric to the garage and can borrow a homeplug kit maybe from a friend. Homeplug uses the mains wiring instead of ethernet cable to connect to your hub - In the garage you then plug either a switch or Wireless access point into a socket - and if all is well - that's all there is to it.
I've had some very good outcomes down some very long gardens with homeplug - but I've also had a couple of instances that weren't so good.
These days BT and the likes of belkin do a thing called "whole home wifi" - I've not used them - but they look interesting for some uses.
on 16-10-2017 23:04
on 17-10-2017 08:32
@Dmacman wrote:
Thank you for your reply. The internet ethernet cable I bought is 50m external special cable buried underground, It was around £35. Before I got VM on Sat it was all working perfectly. I had Sky Internet and I simply plugged the cable into one of the ethernet ports of the back of the sky bub and in the garden office I had an old virgin media super hub from nearly 5 years ago and plugged in the other end of the cable. It broadcast its old internet name and had to put in the old password for the super hub but worked all ok. Plus in the Sky hub all the ports were taken with my other various hard wired devices. Changed to VM as wanted quicker internet. Once I try the above I shall give a full update of what worked. Thank you.
then use the old SH as you had before - log into it and turn off DHCP - you then have the same setup as you had with sky